---
title: "Down and Out in Paris and London"
author: "George Orwell"
languages: [en]
shelf: "Literature"
section: 1 of 38
url: https://scriptura.si/works/orwell-down-and-out-fp20180314/1/
cite: "George Orwell, Down and Out in Paris and London, section 1. Scriptura (scriptura.si), https://scriptura.si/works/orwell-down-and-out-fp20180314/1/"
---

# Down and Out in Paris and London

*George Orwell*

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> Title: Down and Out in Paris and London
Date of first publication: 1933
Author: George Orwell (1903-1950)
Date first posted: Mar. 14, 2018
Date last updated: Mar. 14, 2018
Faded Page eBook #20180314

> This eBook was produced by: Delphine Lettau, Howard Ross
& the online Distributed Proofreaders Canada team at http://www.pgdpcanada.net

> GEORGE ORWELL

> _Down and Out_
    _in Paris and London_

> O scathful harm, condicion of poverte!
       CHAUCER

> PENGUIN BOOKS

> First published by Victor Gollancz 1933

> Copyright 1933 by Eric Blair

> [The end of _Down and Out in Paris and London_ by George Orwell]

## 1. Chapter I

Source: https://scriptura.si/works/orwell-down-and-out-fp20180314/1/ · cite a paragraph as https://scriptura.si/works/orwell-down-and-out-fp20180314/1/#p-N

[¶0] The Rue Du Coq d'Or, Paris, seven in the morning. A succession of
furious, choking yells from the street. Madame Monce, who kept the
little hotel opposite mine, had come out onto the pavement to address a
lodger on the third floor. Her bare feet were stuck into sabots and her
grey hair was streaming down.

[¶1] _Madame Monce: 'Sacrée salope!_ How many times have I told you not to
squash bugs on the wallpaper? Do you think you've bought the hotel, eh?
Why can't you throw them out of the window like everyone else? _Espèce
de traînée!_'

[¶2] _The woman on the third floor: 'Va donc, eh! vieille vache!'_

[¶3] Thereupon a whole variegated chorus of yells, as windows were flung open
on every side and half the street joined in the quarrel. They shut up
abruptly ten minutes later, when a squadron of cavalry rode past and
people stopped shouting to look at them.

[¶4] I sketch this scene, just to convey something of the spirit of the Rue
du Coq d'Or. Not that quarrels were the only thing that happened
there—but still, we seldom got through the morning without at least one
outburst of this description. Quarrels, and the desolate cries of street
hawkers, and the shouts of children chasing orange-peel over the
cobbles, and at night loud singing and the sour reek of the
refuse-carts, made up the atmosphere of the street.

[¶5] It was a very narrow street—a ravine of tall leprous houses, lurching
towards one another in queer attitudes, as though they had all been
frozen in the act of collapse. All the houses were hotels and packed to
the tiles with lodgers, mostly Poles, Arabs and Italians. At the foot of
the hotels were tiny bistros, where you could be drunk for the
equivalent of a shilling. On Saturday nights about a third of the male
population of the quarter was drunk. There was fighting over women, and
the Arab navvies who lived in the cheapest hotels used to conduct
mysterious feuds, and fight them out with chairs and occasionally
revolvers. At night the policemen would only come through the street two
together. It was a fairly rackety place. And yet amid the noise and dirt
lived the usual respectable French shopkeepers, bakers and laundresses
and the like, keeping themselves to themselves and quietly piling up
small fortunes. It was quite a representative Paris slum.

[¶6] My hotel was called the Hôtel des Trois Moineaux. It was a dark, rickety
warren of five storeys, cut up by wooden partitions into forty rooms.
The rooms were small and inveterately dirty, for there was no maid, and
Madame F., the _patronne_, had no time to do any sweeping. The walls
were as thin as matchwood, and to hide the cracks they had been covered
with layer after layer of pink paper, which had come loose and housed
innumerable bugs. Near the ceiling long lines of bugs marched all day
like columns of soldiers, and at night came down ravenously hungry, so
that one had to get up every few hours and kill them in hecatombs.
Sometimes when the bugs got too bad one used to burn sulphur and drive
them into the next room; whereupon the lodger next door would retort by
having _his_ room sulphured, and drive the bugs back. It was a dirty
place, but homelike, for Madame F. and her husband were good sorts. The
rent of the rooms varied between thirty and fifty francs a week.

[¶7] The lodgers were a floating population, largely foreigners, who used to
turn up without luggage, stay a week and then disappear again. They were
of every trade—cobblers, bricklayers, stonemasons, navvies, students,
prostitutes, rag-pickers. Some of them were fantastically poor. In one
of the attics there was a Bulgarian student who made fancy shoes for the
American market. From six to twelve he sat on his bed, making a dozen
pairs of shoes and earning thirty-five francs; the rest of the day he
attended lectures at the Sorbonne. He was studying for the Church, and
books of theology lay face-down on his leather-strewn floor. In another
room lived a Russian woman and her son, who called himself an artist.
The mother worked sixteen hours a day, darning socks at twenty-five
centimes a sock, while the son, decently dressed, loafed in the
Montparnasse cafés. One room was let to two different lodgers, one a day
worker and the other a night worker. In another room a widower shared
the same bed with his two grown-up daughters, both consumptive.

[¶8] There were eccentric characters in the hotel. The Paris slums are a
gathering-place for eccentric people—people who have fallen into
solitary, half-mad grooves of life and given up trying to be normal or
decent. Poverty frees them from ordinary standards of behaviour, just as
money frees people from work. Some of the lodgers in our hotel lived
lives that were curious beyond words.

[¶9] There were the Rougiers, for instance, an old ragged, dwarfish couple
who plied an extraordinary trade. They used to sell postcards on the
Boulevard St Michel. The curious thing was that the postcards were sold
in sealed packets as pornographic ones, but were actually photographs of
châteaux on the Loire; the buyers did not discover this till too late,
and of course never complained. The Rougiers earned about a hundred
francs a week, and by strict economy managed to be always half starved
and half drunk. The filth of their room was such that one could smell it
on the floor below. According to Madame F., neither of the Rougiers had
taken off their clothes for four years.

[¶10] Or there was Henri, who worked in the sewers. He was a tall, melancholy
man with curly hair, rather romantic-looking in his long sewer-man's
boots. Henri's peculiarity was that he did not speak, except for the
purposes of work, literally for days together. Only a year before he had
been a chauffeur in good employ and saving money. One day he fell in
love, and when the girl refused him he lost his temper and kicked her.
On being kicked the girl fell desperately in love with Henri, and for a
fortnight they lived together and spent a thousand francs of Henri's
money. Then the girl was unfaithful; Henri planted a knife in her upper
arm and was sent to prison for six months. As soon as she had been
stabbed the girl fell more in love with Henri than ever, and the two
made up their quarrel and agreed that when Henri came out of jail he
should buy a taxi and they would marry and settle down. But a fortnight
later the girl was unfaithful again, and when Henri came out she was
with child. Henri did not stab her again. He drew out all his savings
and went on a drinking-bout that ended in another month's imprisonment;
after that he went to work in the sewers. Nothing would induce Henri to
talk. If you asked him why he worked in the sewers he never answered,
but simply crossed his wrists to signify handcuffs, and jerked his head
southward, towards the prison. Bad luck seemed to have turned him
half-witted in a single day.

[¶11] Or there was R., an Englishman, who lived six months of the year in
Putney with his parents and six months in France. During his time in
France he drank four litres of wine a day, and six litres on Saturdays;
he had once travelled as far as the Azores, because the wine there is
cheaper than anywhere in Europe. He was a gentle, domesticated creature,
never rowdy or quarrelsome, and never sober. He would lie in bed till
midday, and from then till midnight he was in his corner of the
_bistro_, quietly and methodically soaking. While he soaked he talked,
in a refined, womanish voice, about antique furniture. Except myself, R.
was the only Englishman in the quarter.

[¶12] There were plenty of other people who lived lives just as eccentric as
these: Monsieur Jules, the Roumanian, who had a glass eye and would not
admit it, Fureux the Limousin stonemason, Roucolle the miser—he died
before my time, though—old Laurent the rag-merchant, who used to copy
his signature from a slip of paper he carried in his pocket. It would be
fun to write some of their biographies, if one had time. I am trying to
describe the people in our quarter, not for the mere curiosity, but
because they are all part of the story. Poverty is what I am writing
about, and I had my first contact with poverty in this slum. The slum,
with its dirt and its queer lives, was first an object-lesson in
poverty, and then the background of my own experiences. It is for that
reason that I try to give some idea of what life was like there.
